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Day 065: Midnight Curry

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Rolphton to North Bay, ON
Traditional territory of the Algonquin, Ojibway and Odawa
132 km
Sun and hot, 29 ºC

I biked up to a gas station in the morning in order to refill my water, and was surprised to find that the tap water was untested and therefore undrinkable. I went back outside to find Asad talking to Andre, who had offered us a whole collection of water bottles and was talking about his unique job of conducting a train that replaces the gravel on railway beds.

The sun was hot and we refilled our water bottles several times throughout the day. We had to get picked up in a pickup truck (again) as the terrain and wind kept us from reaching our destination in North Bay.

That’s where we had delicious curry at 11 PM thanks to our new friend Liz. Before she picked us up, another vehicle drove past us, turned around and asked if we needed a ride. We said that someone was already on their way. They wished us luck…and then came back five minutes later to double check that we really were alright.

When they stopped the second time, before we recognized them, Asad said, “I like North Bay. Terrible road, but lots of caring people.” Then we realized it was the same couple as before, and he amended. “One caring couple. But they care a lot.”

And then the curry. Unreal.

I feel like I don’t have my feet under me. In retrospect we spent almost a week in Ottawa but it flashed by in a blur of conversations, Indigenous-led resistance, historical research, an inaccessible bicycle and malfunctioning camera. Not to mention the thunderstorms. The result is that while I had thought Ottawa would be this great moment to rest and recalibrate, it ended up being a very full, routine-interrupting experience (albeit with great food and company at my brother’s in-laws). And now we’re back on the road, to some extent pushing as hard as ever, while I still have stories to share from before Québec City.

At least I have a replacement camera on the way from Downtown Camera, which has been another thing weighing me down. And at least I had curry last night.

Jonathon is a semi-professional adventurer with roots in education and activism.

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